“The Culture Clash” Chapter 2

Hard-Wiring: What the Dog Comes With (Predatory and Social Behavior)

Part 2

Welcome back! Let’s dive into chapter 2 part 2 of The Culture Clash.

Let’s talk about reluctant tuggers. Some dogs will be hard to engage, be the worried types, and not want to pick up objects. These dogs require enthusiastic praise, giving permission for the dog to loosen up. Food for reinforcement isn’t the best for these dogs, so once the disengage cue is met you can stop using treats.

Dogs can also be dissectors and chewers. “Chewing is a normal canine pastime that is both enjoyable for the dog and keeps the jaws and teeth in good shape.” Jean mentions how dogs don’t understand that the things they chew are worth monetary or emotional value. If your dog find something they really like to chew and are punished for it, they will likely wait until you are gone to chew again.

Ways to combat this is to make sure you have suitable chew toys around and confine your dog to areas that are dog-proof. Our goal is to make the entire house accessible to the dog, eventually, and to do this we have to spy on them while they are near the non-chew item. Redirect them to their own chews, and then leave them alone again. Eventually, the dog will learn to ignore the original trigger and go to their chews instead.

There’s an order of events that comes with chew training. In the end, you want the dog to know they have something to chew, and that something is meant for dogs and not humans. You don’t want them to just wait for you to leave, and then chew on the forbidden item.

Jean goes into the “hydraulic model” where dog’s have a behavioral tank full of fuel. The tank has a certain amount in it each morning, and will be drained in several ways throughout the day. Each outlet has a name, like “chewing,” or “barking.” Each reservoir for the outlet must be drained. Jean and I both agree that “if you can’t handle the basic behavioral needs of a dog, do not own one.”

Dogs are natural chewers, and it isn’t feasible for them to always know what is right or wrong to engage with. If you use punishment, each time you use it makes you a bad guy to your dog. Instead, direct your attention to making sure your dog knows what to chew on, and make the options diverse. Playing games with the dog that include the chew is very helpful, like Hide-and-go-Seek.

There are many chews one can buy that are stuffable: meaning, you can put treats/kibble inside. The best chew objects are hollow bones, Kong toys, and bully sticks. Hollow bones and Kong toys can be filled and put in the freezer to harden before the dog gets them. When you stuff them right, the dog will start chewing easily and have to work for the good stuff at the end.

Some dogs are easy and will take the same stuffed chew every day. Other dogs will get bored and need newer options more often. The best options for food are cheese cubes, cream cheese, canned dog food, peanut butter, and unseasoned leftovers.

Stuffed chews are also great because you can put different sized treats inside. Small pieces are easy to fall out, while large pieces require effort to extract.

Adding your dog’s dinner to their chew is also a great idea. You can put a high value snack at the back of the chew, so the dog must work hard for it. You can also hide these chews around the house for the dog to find. It makes a great game!

Now, let’s talk about Organized Dog Sports. Schutzhund is an interesting blend of police dog training, obedience, tracking, and protection/suspect disarming. It’s a “great predatory energy burner” for larger breeds.

In tracking, the goal is to motivate your dog to keep tracking the scent, not just find it. There are tracking organizations that take volunteers to help find missing people. Your dog needs to have a strong desire to work and an have ann owner who is happy to be of service.

There’s another sport called Flyball that “is a relay race between teams of four dogs who must, in turn, jump over four hurdles, trigger a mechanism called a Flyball Box with their paws, catch the tennis ball that flies out and then come back to their handler after the four hurdles with the tennis ball.” This sport is extremely predatory and addictive for dogs. Luckily, Flyball is open to all dog breeds, unlike obedience and tracking.

Agility is full of obstacles on a course that include jumps, tunnels, climbing frames, teeter-totter and weave-poles on a specific route. All breeds can be a part of this sport.

Lure coursing is a prey-chase game. You enter a large field and an artificial prey is moved on a mechanical pulley. Dogs are judged on their speed, agility, keenness, and style. The official level is often restricted to sight hounds, but you can always join a dog camp with a mix-breed.

Now that we’ve talked about how to exercise your dog, let’s talk behavioral problems. Separation from dogs can cause distress, which can include agitation, digging, and chewing. Dog’s weren’t necessarily bred to withstand being alone, but your dog can be taught to tolerate isolation.

Let’s talk alone training. If your dog has severe separation anxiety, there are some ways to curb it. First is to make sure your new puppy or dog has time alone and isn’t always getting attention. Give them time alone for brief durations throughout the day. After many trials, the dog will understand humans won’t always be available and when people leave, they come back again.

Make sure that when the dog is left alone, they are in a dog-proofed area that includes a comfy dog-crate. Give them many chew toys to keep them busy. Dogs also need their predatory fixes daily, which can include fetch, tug, and hide and seek.

Dogs can get very excited and anxious when it comes to departures and arrivals. Make sure you’re less attentive at these times, so that they don’t pick up an emotional attachment to hellos and goodbyes. It’s normal for dogs to vocalize their distress. You can modify it with time and consistency: make sure they’re quiet when you return and resist giving in.

If you need to leave your dog alone all day, hiring a dog walker at a break will benefit your dog. They may not be able to hold their bladder for 8-10 hours while you’re gone. If potty training is an issue, your dog must be in a crate until trusted.

Next week we’ll go one to part 3 of this chapter, stay tuned!